French Lesson
On Bastille Day, celebrate our Gallic allies at Laurier Tim Brookover
Think back to the run-up to war just over a year ago. France, among other U.S. friends, objected to the Bush administration’s headlong, allies-be-damned rush to battle. Overnight, right-wingers, hawks, and kooks began bashing all things French. On the culinary front, some restaurateurs hastily struck even the most remote Gallic traces from menus (remember freedom fries and freedom toast?), and in some American burgs French wine flowed in the streets. In light of events in Iraq, all that petulant Yank posturing seems, well, tres ridicule.
Still mad at the French? Get over it. They were right.
To make amends for our American foolishness, we should celebrate Bastille Day this year. On July 14 Laurier Café & Wine, the exquisite Kirby District restaurant, will advance the tricolor-waving festivities with a holiday wine dinner. Chef/co-owner Gary Fuller—who trained at the French Culinary Institute in New York, by the way—has set a magnifique menu that begins with millefeuille (crisp puff-pastry triangles) with red snapper and leeks, accompanied with a beurre blanc sauce, moves to choucroute then braised lamb shank with polenta. A splendide apple tart with berries polishes off the feast ($64; reservations for the 7 p.m. dinner required). Vive la France!
