DineOut Krazy Katz’s Finally filling the crumbling space on lower Westheimer, Katz’s Deli satisfies midnight cravings (and any other time) with greasy gusto by E.J. Arnell

Katz’s Deli is like a Disney reincarnation of a real New York-style neighborhood deli. The attempt at authenticity comes from a multitude of easily recognizable Big Apple paraphernalia, which is plastered over everything in this two-story eatery on Westheimer. The visual stimuli keeps you well entertained until your food arrives; after that, it’s hard to notice anything else.

Some of you may have fond memories of Tila’s Cantina & Taqueria, the Mexican restaurant that once occupied this space. With its authentic food and funky late-night atmosphere, Tila’s became a Houston landmark to such an extent that when owner Clive Duval left Houston, the closing of the restaurant was covered by all the local TV stations. (Tila Hidalgo Leach and her recipes were the inspiration behind Clive and you can take a walk down memory lane at her restaurant, the Original Tila’s, on Shepard Drive in River Oaks.) After this icon closed, the beautiful big white building that had towered over the heyday of ’80s Montrose went into a decade-long collapse.

The neighborhood welcomed the good-looking brown brick building that replaced the wreckage. Father and son team Marc and Barry Katz decided to branch out from their popular Austin location and continue the family tradition in Houston. Barry is the fifth generation of restaurateurs. Check out the endearing family photos on the inside cover of Katz’s menu. Why Texas? Why not? Marc Katz closed a restaurant in Queens to open Katz’s deli in Austin in 1979 and has never looked back.

Walking into Katz’s you are immediately met with visual temptations from the long glass display case showing off desserts and sandwich meats. Anything that is served in the restaurant is for sale–by the slice or by the pound–from the deli.

The bar area on the main floor wraps around Westheimer, with dark-green-painted French doors looking out onto the street. One downside: For nonsmoking diners at non-peak times, you must share the downstairs eating area with the smokers, which can get uncomfortably smoky. Overall, Katz’s has a fun-filled atmosphere in a bright and comfortable décor, ideal for fulfilling any greasy craving.

This is not a health-conscious restaurant and they do not pretend to be. If you phone in and get put on hold, you’ll hear the energetic recorded message from Marc Katz in which he brags that his favorite, the cheesecake shake, is "a heart attack in a glass." This is the kind of place where you go to stuff your face with food that you know is bad for you but tastes yummy. The portions are outrageous! It’s impossible to leave feeling hungry and even more difficult to walk out without a drag in your step.

One of the tastiest items on the menu is the Brooklyn deli patty melt made from U.S. prime Angus beef. At $7.95, it’s a bargain meal. Two pieces of Jewish rye bread are grilled and filled with a half-pound burger, melted American cheese, sautéed onions, and mushrooms. It comes with a cheese-stuffed potato or French fries. The buttery toasty bread goes wonderfully with the cheesy beef and flavorful vegetables. You crunch through the strong rye and hit warm gooey protein.

The nine-page menu is stocked with every imaginable deli item and many Jewish favorites. The greatest thing is that "Katz’s Never Kloses," so you can have a big-eat fix–including breakfast–any time of day. They serve appetizers, soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, steaks, grilled fish, open-faced sandwiches, large choices of sides, and a variety of egg dishes. If you have room, there’s a full page devoted to desserts.

As this is a Kosher-style deli, you’ll have the opportunity to try some Jewish food. For instance, their award-winning matzo ball, chicken, and noodle soup is a hearty beginning. Yet, stay away from the kasha varniska–sounds exotic, but it’s really just drab bowtie buckwheat pasta served with gravy. The potato knish is a winner, with its light and flaky pastry, as is the homemade chopped chicken liver with horseradish, served as an appetizer with rye toast and deep-fried caramelized onions.

For breakfast, the Kosher-style tacos are good. Scrambled egg, chopped salami, spicy "fire dog," and potato pancake are rolled up in three flour tortillas with salsa on the side. The crunchiness of the potato with the chewy meat and soft egg makes for an interesting combination of textures in this tasty breakfast dish. The pecan pancakes come highly recommended by manager Barry Ruth. The cheese blintzes with blueberry sauce are good, but a little too sweet for morning. As a dessert, they’d be great.

In the mood for a huge sandwich? Be prepared to make decisions with over 30 to choose from. You must try the Reuben if you’re a sauerkraut fan. It’s their signature dish and would hold its own against any Brooklyn competitor. The Reuben is Friday’s daily special and comes with fries for $8.75.

If you want to challenge the flexibility of your jaw, then order the Kosher-style kountry klub. I had to remove quite a few of the slices of turkey before I could get my mouth around the sandwich. They replace the more traditional pork bacon with beef bacon, making for a flavorful change. According to the menu, you can get a free bucket of pickles on request. The pickles are a good way to break up the bites of sandwich. They have a great snap to them and their strength tickles your nose. I can’t imagine eating a bucket, however.

The sandwiches and burgers are the best offerings on the menu, but there are also "Chef Barry’s dinner suggestions," a variety of dishes including open-faced turkey and beef sandwiches, pot roast, corned beef and cabbage, roast chicken or turkey, with choice of sides. One way to sample the sides is to order Katz’s pick 3, which gives you the choice of three of the 19 sides.

The dessert page offers standard classics, such as carrot cake, apple pie, caramel fudge cheesecake, and jumbo hot fudge sundaes. With prices ranging $3.95 to $6.95, they may be steep and sweet, but they will fill you from head to feet. There is a fair collection of beer and wine, and an exceptional array of nonalcoholic drinks including freshly squeezed orange and grapefruit juice, lemonade, handmade milk shakes, and floats. If you’re going to go for an indulgent meal, you might as well go all the way.

However, as fun as the food is–it doesn’t improve the service, which, on occasion, is as sloppy as a Kosher-style foot-long hot dog with sauerkraut and onions. With lots of free parking behind the building and across the street, it’s easy to drop in to pick up an order to go, or to settle in for a meal. Be prepared to wait on the weekends as Houston’s curious deli diners flock to Katz’s for a fix. Cozy up to the bar and be patient, just like any real New Yorker would.

Katz’s Bar and Deli

616 Westheimer @ Crocker St.

713/521-3838